Elderberry

Even in early antiquity, the elderberry bush was regarded as one of the most important Medicinal plants, and this has remained the case to this day. Stories from as far back as the present day bear witness to the reverence shown towards the elderberry, such as ‘elderly gentlemen would have doffed their hats when passing an imposing elderberry bush’. In the fairy tale of Frau Holle, the elderberry serves as ‘the seat of the goddess Holla, who knew how to protect plants and animals’. And according to the story, even the cross of Jesus is said to have been made of elderberry wood.

There are countless references, stories and fables that point to the elderberry’s long tradition as a medicinal plant. However, the elderberry bush was also attributed with ominous properties. In any case, old texts on folk beliefs state that the withering of an elderberry bush is said to coincide with the death of a family member.

The genus of the musk tree family comprises around 20 species of small, deciduous trees, shrubs and also perennials. In folklore, Freya, the goddess of love, takes refuge in a black elderberry bush; for this reason, only the black elder (Sambucus nigra) is of significance to us.

The black elder, also known colloquially as ‘Hölder’ or ‘Holderbusch’, is native to temperate zones, where, in fertile and moist soil, it can grow up to 12 metres tall and live to a great age. Elder loves a sunny to semi-shaded position, where in spring it produces a magnificent display of white flowers reminiscent of a wedding dress. The deep black elderberries, which can be harvested in autumn, are mildly toxic and may cause gastrointestinal discomfort if eaten. To break down the toxins, the berries should be boiled before consumption.

This woody plant, with its corky, grey-brown bark, needs to be rejuvenated each year by pruning. However, unlike ornamental elderberries, black elder should not be pruned too severely, so as to encourage flower production in spring.

Elderflower tea is a very effective home remedy for flu, colds and catarrh. The essential oils it contains, with their complex aromas, have diaphoretic and expectorant properties.

The leaves are successfully used for the external treatment of minor burns and chilblains.

The berries of the black elder were formerly used as a dye for hair and fabrics, but also to give leather and red wine their characteristic red colour.

The white flowers of the black elder are also used today in specialised skin lotions and ointments.

Arguably the best-known way to prepare the flowers is as fried elderflowers, which are also known as ‘Holunderküchlein’ in German-speaking countries. To make them, the flowers are dipped in a thin pancake batter and then deep-fried until they float. Sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and served on a bed of vanilla cream, this is a thoroughly wholesome speciality from grandmother’s time.

Elderflower syrup, elderflower liqueur and elderflower wine are other well-known ways to enjoy them, whether as a flavourful aperitif or with dessert.

Elderberry jam made from the berries – not just as a spread – goes very well with baked potatoes, or ‘Gschwellti’, and with cheese.